Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Shiga Kogen....one last snow adventure!

Our time in Japan is drawing to a close and greedily we are absorbing as much as we can. It's a time to do last minute shopping, a time to reflect on the places we've seen and the places we wish we'd seen, as well as a time to be organising the packing and shipment of our belongings home. Living in a foreign country has given us the opportunity to experience so much....so many places, so many people, so many taste sensations, so many experiences! We feel so very lucky to have lived in such a wonderful country!

With the number of weekends dwindling, we must make the most of every moment. With this in mind, we decided to make one last trip to the snow. We considered Hokaido but the airfares were fairly pricey and from all accounts it's a little more Westernised. With Steve using a couple of his 'holiday' days we chose to take a four day trip on the main island, Honshu. Rather than going with Tokyo Gaijins we decided to go it alone and plan our own trip. With the assistance of non English speaking staff at Tsurumi Station, Steve managed to organise the whole package. 

Destination....Shiga Kogen. Mission....skiing and snow monkeys!

Shiga Kogen, 250 km's from Tokyo, is a cosy ski resort nestled in the heart of the Joshin-etsu National Park in Nagano Prefecture. Famous for its grand scale ski terrain, amazing panoramic views and powder quality snow, Shiga Kogen is the ultimate destination for the keen skier and snowboarder who is in search of the best powder snow. Consisting of 21 ski fields and about 75 lifts, gondolas, ropeways and tows, Shiga Kogen is by far the largest ski resort in Japan. One lift pass covers all 21 fields and free shuttle buses link each field so the opportunities are endless! Apart from the 3000 metre Japanese Alps, there is the World famous Jigokudani Monkey Hot Springs, where wild snow monkeys can be seen bathing in the natural hot springs.
Yakebi where each of the runs terminate at one of the Prince Hotels.
Our package (66,000¥/ $760.00aud/person) included return fares on a Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano, return bus fares from Nagano to Prince Hotel East in Shiga Kogen, 3 nights accommodation, breakfasts and dinners, 20% discount on our ski gear hire and 10% discount on our 2 day lift pass. We left Ishikawacho Station at about 7.50am to catch the 9.20am Shinkansen in Tokyo. We arrived in Nagano at 11.05am and promptly caught an 11.15am bus. We arrived at our hotel, Prince Hotel East, just before 1.00pm. Prince Hotel has 3 wings but each one is separated by about a kilometre. There were no other shops or buildings, just our hotel and two lifts at the foot of the fields. It was an absolutely amazing location totally surrounded by the spectacular Japanese Alps. Our room had a large picture window overlooking the ski fields and to the rear were the craggy alps. We could not have wished for more. We were quite literally 'blown away' by it all.
The view from our room!       Honto! .....Hai!
The view out the back! It doesn't look real but it is!
Our room 5th from the right on the top floor and the dining room on the far left.
We decided to visit the snow monkeys on our first afternoon but, due to a slight 'lost in translation' experience, we aborted our trip halfway when we found the monkey park would be closed by the time we reached it. It was disappointing but what could we do but take the one hour bus trip back to the hotel. We chose to have dinner at the Chinese Restaurant at Prince Hotel West. As it was a couple of km's down the road we caught the free shuttle bus, not realising that the hotel actually had its own mini bus to shuttle guests between the three wings. Our meal ticket entitled us to a nine course banquet. We were unsure what to expect but any doubts were quickly allayed. We were, indeed, treated to an amazing meal. Each beautifully presented course was a taste sensation of subtle flavours and accompanied by a description given in broken English by our friendly host. He explained that the menu was a 'corraboration of Chinese and Japanese'! It was certainly like no other Chinese meal we've ever had and even included shark fin soup. (We definitely have our own views on the custom of killing sharks for their fins but tonight was not the appropriate forum to take a stance.)  We felt we wouldn't need to eat for a week. It had been a long day and, once back at our hotel, we were glad to 'hit the sack'! Tomorrow we had some serious skiing to do!
After breakfast on our second day we quickly organised our ski gear hire and lift tickets eager to hit the slopes. (ski set 7200Y/$83aud/clothing 5600¥/$64 each for 2 days and 9000¥/$102 each for 2 day lift pass less 10% so $45 per day!!) We started by taking the gondola outside the hotel to the top where we had a variety of runs to choose from. We spent the day happily catching different lifts and experiencing many of the runs. The views from every angle were so stunning that one could be forgiven for taking hundreds of photos. 
That's the hotel down the bottom!
Steve was in his element and confidently tested his skills. Initially, I was a little hesitant having lost my confidence after a couple of spectacular falls in early January. Fortunately, I was soon zooming down the slopes with a satisfactory amount of skill. I mean what choice did I have with 'himself' enjoying high speed most of the time. It snowed for a few hours during the morning but by mid afternoon the sky had cleared and the powder coverage made the runs a little more forgiving. The snow was excellent and the slopes were wide and not at all busy. In fact, I would say very quiet. We certainly didn't have to queue on any of the lifts. 
We stopped at Prince Hotel West for an udon noodles and ramen lunch. At one stage during the afternoon Steve and I parted ways when I missed a fork on one of the runs. He went one way and I the other. Mmmm!! This could be tricky finding each other. I caught the lift at the spot where I had ended up and kept an eye out for Steve. When I was nearly to the top I saw Steve searching 'off the track' places for me. I called out and waited at the top for him to arrive. Steve had imagined that I'd gone off the track and crashed into a tree or something. Oh 'ye of little faith!' 
Contemplating my descent!
For dinner that night we opted for a delicious silver service meal in the restaurant. As is always the way in Japan the service was impeccable. On Saturday, we made an early start and headed off to see the snow monkeys. We left early so we could be back by early afternoon to squeeze in a few hours of skiing. We checked and double checked the bus timetable to be sure there were connecting buses and we would get there. From where we stayed at Princes Hotel East it took about one hour on a bus and then another 30 minutes to walk the 2.4 kms from the Kanbayashi bus stop. The walk to the park entrance was very pretty, as was the walk through the park.
Oops!!
Jigokudani Yaen Koen (wild monkey park) is the only place in the world where monkeys bathe in hot springs. The Japanese Macaque can be seen roaming the park but, of course, the main attraction is to see them taking an onsen. The surrounding scenery was quite picturesque and apparently the ground is snow covered for one third of the year. It was another perfect opportunity to take many photos.

As it turned out, after our visit to the snow monkey park, we had only left ourselves 2.5 hours for skiing. The ski lifts all stop at 4pm so we had no time to waste. We really went for it and managed to get in eleven runs. Not bad considering we only did nine the day before. We were like 'kids in a candy shop' and just couldn't get enough. Using the gondola and hi speed lift at our hotel we were up and down those slopes all afternoon. With so many runs and combinations of runs available there was no risk of becoming bored, but I must admit in the end we found a favourite one which we repeated quite a few times. It was two very exhausted 'snow bunnies' who reluctantly returned their hire gear at 4.30pm. 
After a soak in the hot tub and a lazy couple of hours spent reading and dozing, we enjoyed another beautiful silver service meal in the restaurant overlooking the ski fields. The hi speed lift was operating under lights and the antics of snowboarders and skiiers was the night's entertainment. Our last morning was spent taking in all the scenery and just enjoying the ambience of the resort. We were sad to catch the bus back to Nagano for our 3.15pm Shinkansen departure. Back in Tokyo we caught a typically overcrowded train to Yokohama then Ishikawacho and were back in the apartment by just after 6pm. 

Wow!! Another memorable Japanese experience! I will remember the gorgeous, snow covered Japanese Alps and monkeys that love to enjoy an onsen for the rest of my life.  Our time in Japan has certainly been enriched by several 'fun filled' skiing adventures !  

Subarashi desu! Mata arigatou gozaimasu!

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Return to Hakuba!

Tuesday January 3rd.... Melbourne....sweltering in 40 degrees! Friday January 6th...Northern Japanese Alps.....-10 degrees! Totemo samu-i desu yo! Darn...I knew I should have packed a jumper!
We'd been back in Australia, visiting family and friends and celebrating the wedding of our youngest daughter, Sarah. Even so, I'd made sure our long weekend trip to Hakuba with Tokyo Gaijins was booked.

Touching down in Narita on the Wednesday, where it was a chilly -2 degrees on the ground, we quickly layered up for our 2 hour journey back to Ishikawacho in Yokohama. Welcome back to Japan and Winter in January!!

As is normal for trips organised by Ricky of Tokyo Gaijins, the departure point for Hakuba was in Shinjuku on the Friday at 8pm. For us, it meant leaving Ishikawacho at about 6pm. We caught the Shonan-Shinjuku Line from Yokohama which is far quicker than taking the Tokaido Line to Shinagawa then transferring to the Yamanote Line to Shinjuku. Leaving Friday and arriving after midnight means we're on the snowfields ready for an early start on the Saturday morning. Last year we'd done the same trip with a group of friends, which included brother Si and niece, Charlotte and Abi, Alex, Graham, Meg and Abishek. This year it was Steve and I and 60 other unknowns.

We arrived in Hakuba at about 12.30am. By 1am, we'd laid out the futons, quilts and sobakowa (buckwheat husk) pillows on the tatami mats and were looking forward to a long awaited sleep. Mmmm....the futons were a bit hard this time and those pillows really are a bit torturous. I, cunningly, had stowed a latex pillow in my luggage. Very kindly, I donated my soba pillow to Steve and used my puffer jacket as extra padding.
Saturday morning, after checking out the view, we were ready for a Japanese breakfast at 7.30am. We needed to be kitted up by 8.30am to catch the first shuttle bus. We slacked off though and caught a bus just after 9am, not wanting to overdo things. With the exception of goggles, gloves and beanies, we hired all our gear for the weekend which saved lugging a lot of stuff around. On arrival it was all hanging on a rack ready to go. Too easy!

After a 20 minute  shuttle bus journey we arrived at Tsugaike Kogen, the first mountain for us to conquer!! Hakuba has three main mountains.... Happo One, Iwatake and Tsugaike Kogen. Armed with our lift voucher (pre paid by Ricky for 4200¥ or about $55AUD/day) we quickly exchanged this for our electronic ticket, collected a map and planned our assault. With 22 chair lifts and a gondola we had plenty of choices. The ratio of runs is....Beg: 40% Int: 40% Adv: 20, so a perfect place for us to 'have a go'!
Surprisingly, on our first day we had very few falls and seemed to quite successfully descend the slopes. There seemed to be a little less powder snow than last year but the conditions and scenery were fantastic. We had a lunch stop at, can you believe it, KFC located half way down the mountain. Recharged, we were ready to tackle the slopes again.
The 'navigator'!
The 'entertainment'!
I liked this Einstein design!
While we were still ahead, we opted to catch a 3.30pm shuttle bus back to the hotel and take advantage of the hot onsen to soak our weary muscles in and then enjoy a relaxing lie down before dinner. As we were back a bit earlier than all the others I had the onsen to myself, which prevented me splashing anyone like I did last year. Oops! I was also sporting a sprained left thumb gained from an argument between my ski stock and a slope so I was glad to rest it!!
Dinner, like breakfast, was traditional Japanese fare and dress code was PJ's, if you so desired. 
                                        
Following dinner was the pyjama party where members of the group got together for drinks supplied by Ricky and the typical snow stories of the day. Of course, typically, not everyone wore their night gear. Afterwards, many went for more drinks down the road but we were glad to hit the 'tatami mats' in preparation for the next day.
Interesting pj's Ricky!
Mmm.. and very daggy Jordan!
Sunday dawned crisp, cool and clear! There'd been no snowfalls overnight which, ultimately, was to be my undoing throughout the day. We headed off on the shuttle bus, this time to Iwatake, where we'd enjoyed a wonderful day last year. Iwatake's main run is Sunny Valley, suited for beginners to intermediate level skiers and is 3.8 km long but, with 15 courses altogether there are plenty of choices on this mountain. Certainly enough to keep me busy! We started off taking a lift which deposited you at a point a run short of the gondola drop off point. The views from every angle were nothing short of spectacular unless you're looking directly at the ground after a fall!! 
Steve was in his element, zooming and traversing, down the slopes but weariness seemed to have beaten me and my endurance level was low. In places where it was a bit icy I'd hesitate and then down I would go, each fall compounding my lack of energy!
Preparing for more falls!
By the end of the day I had injured my left thumb again and again but it was actually my poor right thumb that came off worst. On one of my many falls, I had doubled it back and by the evening my whole hand was very swollen. Ouch!! Throughout the night it felt like I had a leg of lamb as a hand. I'd found a snaplock bag and gone outside to scoop up some snow which became a useful icepack until it melted and ended up on the futon. Darn!

Before dinner we went for a walk around town and to the slopes of Happo One where the lights were on for night time skiing. 
Even the trees rug up!
By dinner time we were ravenous and enthusiastically downed our miso soup and the normal assortment of Japanese taste sensations! Many people went out again that night but many were also nursing wounds so we weren't the only ones to be saying, 'Is it bedtime yet?' There was a heavy dump of snow on the Sunday night and Happo One looked superb on Monday but we decided to enjoy walking around town as my hands were not capable of gripping the stocks (even Jordan the snow board instructor bowed out after a crash the day before). Such a shame as the powder snow looked amazing!!
Ricky had offered five tickets to anyone who was happy to catch an earlier bus so we actually caught a 1pm bus which got us back to Tokyo about 2.5 hours earlier than the others. We were back at the apartment by 8.30pm  rather than 11pm, a bonus for Steve who had to be at work earlier than normal for a 'phone hook up' meeting the next day!
Wish my thumbs could do that!
Wow! How lucky were we to have enjoyed yet another ski adventure in the Japanese Alps? At about $550AUD each, which included accommodation (we paid extra for a private room), two dinners and two breakfasts, all transport, all our ski gear, ski lifts each day and insurance, I believe it was  good value! Only our lunches each day and breakfast on the last day were extra. To those of you who love to ski, I highly recommend a skiing holiday in Japan and if you join a Tokyo Gaijins group all the preparation is done for you. We will definitely squeeze in one more trip before the snow season closes in mid March! The question is, 'Where?'