Our Christmas in Japan!!

Christmas in Japan, imagine that!! I could not have imagined that last Christmas!!!! Christmas in the Northern Hemisphere.....in Winter.......what??? That can't be true you only have Christmas in summer!!! 

Celebrating Christmas for the first time without our gorgeous off spring was very strange. To be away from our children, their partners and the grand children was very difficult indeed (muzukashi desu). Parents, relations and friends were also far away. There were no Carols by Candlelight, no crazy last minute frenetic shopping, no hanging out stockings, no Christmas family get together's.....the list goes on. Technology helped close the gap a little....texts, emails, Skype, phone but it's still separation.

With the passing of Halloween, preparations for Christmas began in earnest. Decorations were up within a week and Christmas carols began playing in all the shops. I made another trip to Ikea to source a tree and some decorations to start the 'build up'! Going to Ikea is always a fun trip, whether in Australia or Japan. Here though I have to catch two trains and a bus to get there. Ikea is located in Shin-Yokohama so I catch a train to Yokohama, then change onto another train which takes me to Shin-Yokohama. Ikea provides a free shuttle bus which runs every 25 minutes throughout the day. The bus trip takes about 15 minutes. 

Browsing through the catalogue at home, I had decided on the tree I would like to buy. Unfortunately they were sold out. Outside there were 'real' trees for sale but I didn't want to cart a tree home on the trains and I didn't want the task of cutting it in to little pieces, after Christmas, to dispose of it. My trip was not in vain, I did return home with some decorations and, of course, other bits and pieces as well! I even managed to organise having packages delivered to the apartment. It was fun watching everyone choosing their trees at Ikea...there were thousands of trees in a long pile. People were sifting through the pile, pulling trees out, pulling the ties off  and then throwing them aside until the perfect tree was found. Long suffering staff were busy re wrapping  and throwing trees back on the pile. Everything was supplied for customers to wrap their trees up with.....plastic, string, tape, bags! It looked chaotic but the staff were diligent in their duties and kept the crowds under control.

After looking around the shops nearer to home I finally chose my tree at our local hardware shop....our answer to Bunnings! With my bicycle loaded up, tree in the basket and groceries on the back it was a wobbly, slightly unsafe trip home. Visibility considerably compromised!

I stowed the goodies  in a cupboard until the first week of December. It's funny though, try as I did, I just couldn't get into Christmas mode. Was it the lack of children in my life?...no grand kids, no school kids all excited about Christmas, no report writing and end of year work stress. I don't know it just didn't feel like Christmas. I soldiered on though and refused to give up. We had work parties and meals out with people going home on leave but where was Christmas?

A friend of ours here says that the Japanese are 'commercial Christians', they don't believe in Christmas but they 'do it' big time, even my language teachers agreed. Gifts are exchanged on Christmas day and many enjoy a special meal, but as it was not a public holiday it was business as usual. Different to Australia where most people are inside somewhere sharing a meal with their family. The most important day of celebration in Japan is New Year's Day. We are looking forward to experiencing this special celebration.

The decorations in Tokyo were beautiful, in particular in Ginza and Roppongi Hills. With the arrival of our latest 'alien' visitors we returned to Tokyo to share the lights with them. In an earlier blog I showed the lights of Roppongi Hills, which could only be described as stunning. 

Ginza was also gorgeous.

Riding our bikes around Yamate, Steve and I came upon this.

Christmas Eve was spent in Motomachi Street at an interesting bar. For the first time in many, many years we were not together with all the family and many friends at Paula's. The lights and displays were beautiful. Motomachi Street was decorated in a classy, understated manner.

Christmas morning was a very quiet, relaxed time. Steve and Dave had bought a 'turkey', really just a big chicken, and a ham. Mandy and I had found gifts to put under the tree. The Christmas music I had brought from Australia echoed through the apartment. So it wasn't like normal, but we were giving it our best. Thanks to Skype and the telephone we were able to contact all our families.

Mandy stuffed the turkey, the 'pudding' was prepared and then all we had to do was make continuous toasts to the occasion. The pudding comprised some individually wrapped brandy fruit cakes and I made a nice egg custard. Christmas dinner was amazingly civilised.....no crying, no tantrums, no spilt drinks.

 Even the Asahi beer comes in small cans for small drinkers!!!

Gift giving time was also very civilised....no ripping parcels open, no piles of paper, no gift rejections (except for Dave). A bit boring, but we kept up the game. Jokes aside, we had a lovely day. Wearing my fluffy earmuffs, a gift from Steve, Mandy and I exchange gifts. 

Another gift of chopsticks in a special pouch will alleviate needing to use inferior 'throw away' varieties when dining out during the day.  Thanks Mandy and Dave.  

 Mandy is modelling the haori jacket we gave her.

We had a lovely day together and then lay about all afternoon and evening reading, maybe drinking a bit and sleeping and, for me, studying Japanese. We had planned to walk around the foreshore after lunch but quite frankly the temperature was a major deterrent. Fuji San was wearing an extra layer of snow and the wind chill factor was.........well........chilly!!

To who ever is reading this post, I hope you had a wonderful Christmas and that a safe, happy and healthy New Year lies ahead. 

Merry Christmas!!!

We may not have had snow in Yokohama but the newly constructed ice rink at the Red Brick Buildings helped create the mood. In Summer there was a beach, in Autumn the Oktoberfest and now an ice skating rink. Where will it end???

Go Japan!!!!

Your attention to detail and dedication to having fun is inspiring!!!

Steam, saunas and sake!!!

Steam, saunas and sake!!......It's very hard to see in Kawazu....it can't be the sake it must be the steam! Steam from the onsens, steam from the saunas!! All in all it was a steamy experience!

Another 'alien' visitation ....... another trip to the Izu Peninsula. Each visit reaps new findings and each visit develops our 'traffic jam' skills of patience....in my previous teaching life we called it scaffolding!! With Bek, Sarah and the girls we chose a ryokan in Toi for our overnight accommodation and with Marion a ryokan in Shimoda. The latter choice was a little shaky in all senses....the place was well past its best and to top it off I was ill all night. This time I researched carefully and finally decided to move away from the coast in search of a new experience. There is often the option of traditional Japanese or Western style accommodation....we like the tatami mats and futons. We enjoy visiting the east and west coasts but also like to travel through the mountainous central region.

Having decided on a couple of places in Kawazu, I took my list down to the front desk and asked one of our lovely concierges to book for me. Many places can not be booked online and most places do not have English speaking staff. Our first inquiry with Amagi Onsen Zen-no-yu Youth Hostel was successful.........our accommodation was under control. What it would be like was for us to find out. What would be, would be!! It's all part of the fun and the experience. As a couple of my previous blog posts have covered the Izu Peninsula, rather than repeat past information, I will only outline a few of the many highlights this weekend offered.

Wherever we drove on our first day we had Fuji-San in our sights. If not ahead of us, he was looking over our shoulder, standing tall and grand with his snow capped peak. It's amazing how the snow has receded over the past couple of weeks. The skies were clear and blue, perfect for continual visual contact with this Japanese icon. From Yokohama to the west coast, he was there!!

Hakone, our first stop, was dominated by his presence and we could not resist a trip on the cable car (Sorry Sarah!! We'll go back for you). Hakone, located less than 100 kilometres from Tokyo, on the shores of Lake Ashi is part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. It is a very popular destination.

A chair lift ticket (or is that a wicket?)cost 1050 yen per person (about $12.50AUD) and we decided it was the best value for money we had experienced for a while.

Even 'Himself' was impressed!!!

As we rose above Hakone, our panoramic view was dominated by Fuji-san, Lake Ashi and the dense forests below.

As we left the cable car station, like any self respecting tourists, we had to take these shots!!

Once at the top, the ground was a little chilly under foot but the views were beautiful. We meandered around enjoying the views back to Tokyo and surrounding towns.

Still with miles to cover, we had a quick lunch at the bottom and then moved on. From Hakone we found our way down the east coast to Toi and then across the mountains to Kawazu on the east coast. We went across the spiral bridge just before arriving but, as it was dark, the 'aliens' could only feel the spiralling sensation not see it.

By the time we reached our destination it was just after 5pm and, as mentioned, dark. We drove around Kawazu looking for the inn and, instead of believing my paper map, we used the GPS by putting the phone number in. Unfortunately, it took us to the wrong place. On our way into Kawazu we had driven past a place that looked like the pictures on the Internet, so we returned there. A quick check confirmed we had arrived.  

Well!!! 

The Amagi Onsen Zen-no-yu YH exceeded all expectations. It was brilliant. The tariff of 7130 yen each provided accommodation, a traditional Japanese dinner and breakfast and unlimited use of the stone sauna and onsens. On arrival we were presented with our linen for the futons and a little bag with our towel, hand towel, toiletries, pyjamas and wrap for the sauna. Everything was immaculate and tastefully presented. We were literally blown away and..... so started our totally indulgent and luxurious evening!

Dinner was served at 6.30pm so, after a wine in the room, we headed down to the dining room. We had been told it was acceptable to wear our pyjamas to tea , so when in Rome........

'Herself' is ready for anything ! Futons are made, bag is packed, pyjamas on.....bring it on!!

 

Tea was amazing.....seven different dishes, including ramen which we prepared ourselves. The whole meal was vegetarian so anything that looked or tasted like fish was really tofu...even me who really quite dislikes tofu managed to eat it. The platter below is the ingredients for the ramen. Disgustingly healthy.......and very nice.

The only thing I couldn't come at was the little offering that looked like a condom filled with some odd mixture. It was actually tofu and sesame paste. When you pricked the balloon, it retracted and the insides sort of flopped out. It was a greyish colour and I am sure it was very special, but I just couldn't do it!! I did note it was equally perplexing for the young Japanese group sitting behind us. Warm sake was a delightful accompaniment to the meal!!

Through the window of the dining room, not a traditional 'Japanese' room, the red and blue curtains mark the entrances to the 'water activity' area!! As is normal it was boys in one area and girls in another. Just as well, I say!!

After our delicious tea, we headed off to our respective areas. Mandy and I started with the sauna. As we entered, the warmth and scent was gorgeous. I tried to take a photo (another of my 'closed window' moments) and naturally the camera fogged up instantly. We lay our towels down on the stones and then lay ourselves down. Oh, what a feeling!!! Relaxing music, warm stones,  shiny, black timber walls and ceiling and darkness! Within a very short time our bodies were saturated and, in spite of drinking copious quantities of water, we could only stay for about 10-15 minutes. We then moved to the indoor onsen where we enjoyed soaking in the hot spring water which flowed constantly. The water was suitable for drinking so, in the absence of wine, we drank!

When it got too hot we moved to the outside area where, once again, there was fresh hot, hot water on tap. After another plunge, we lay down on the cold banana lounges to chill down. Brrrr!!! very chilly! When we had cooled down sufficiently it was back to the sauna to repeat the process. Finally, we finished off with another scrub down and took advantage of all the gorgeous creams and sprays on offer. Oh, the life of the rich and (in)famous!!!!

Breakfast was an equally beautiful meal and we then followed up with a repeat of the previous night's 'water activities'. The outdoor onsens are behind the fenced area.

Needless to say we were very impressed with our stay, so impressed by our night that I have made a booking for Sarah and Steve, when they visit in March. The whole experience was gorgeous.

Before leaving, Steve and I climbed the hill behind the building and found an old shed with a potter's kiln in it. Whilst poking around we frightened an animal, which quickly disappeared from view. We thought it looked like a little bear!

How excited were we, when we discovered the so called creature hiding beside the kiln. After a few photos we left him alone........in hindsight, probably a bit stunned by the flash!! A search on the Internet confirmed it was a Japanese raccoon dog or tanuki. The tanuki is not related to the raccoon but is part of the evolutionary family that includes foxes, wolves and dogs.

The animal carries historical and cultural significance in Japan. It is a common theme in Japanese art, especially in statues. Takuni statues can be seen outside many restaurants and, in Asakusa, a rickshaw driver explained the significance of the many different raccoon statues.

We began the next stage of our trip going back across the spiral bridge to visit the Kawazu Falls.

We didn't see all seven falls this time but had a lovely walk around. The autumn leaves are still hanging in there!

 If you believe the sign we all felt very relaxed after our walk........cleansed of all negative ions!!

We had a stopover in Shimoda and I was fascinated with all racks of fish drying in the sun. 

We moved back up the east coast and got stuck in the normal traffic jams around Ito and Atami. Incidentally the toll fees were only 3000yen for the weekend, well down on recent trips. Fortunately we were not held up for long in the traffic and were back home by about six o'clock. 

Another great 'Japanese' adventure!! 

So for me it's back to Japanese lessons, more adventures around Yokohama and Tokyo with the 'aliens' and preparing for  two extra visitors, Si and Charlotte. It's a busy life....but an exciting one!