They call me 'Little Edo'!

With its main street lined by massive kurazukuri (warehouse style) buildings, the former castle town of Kawagoe has retained a certain atmosphere reminiscent of past centuries. Consequently, the city has been nicknamed 'Little Edo' (Koedo). Edo was Tokyo's former name. Many cities and towns in Japan call themselves, 'Little Kyoto' but Kawagoe is only one of three that claims the name, 'Little Edo'.

Little Edo,

Timeless window to the past.

The streets of Little Edo

Where old world charm survives.

This is where the samurai trod,

This is where they fought.

Journey into yesteryear,  

Feel the romanticism 
Of a bygone era!

The temperature was predicted to be in the high 20's, with a comfort factor in the low 30's, so it seemed a perfect day to take the long awaited visit to Kawagoe (pronounced kuh-wuh-goh-(short)e). Located one hour north west of Tokyo, it has been on a proposed itinerary since last June but somewhere I have just never made it to. My 'umbrella' mission is to cram as much as I can into whatever time we have left in Japan before the project team leaves and moves on to PNG.

With the sun boring down, I left Leyton House just after 8.00am. I cashed up at the 7Eleven ATM, topped up my Suica card at the station and began the journey to Kawagoe. According to Joroudan Route Finder, the 76 kilometre trip would take 1.5-2 hours and cost between 1140-1250¥. Knowing me I leaned towards the latter time. Allowing for a navigational correction at Tokyo, where I sensed my train had a different destination in mind than me, and choosing the best train option at Ikebukuro, I arrived in two hours. So many trains, so many platforms, lines and people...so little English when you really need it! Coming into the station, commuters were treated to a thunderstorm spectacular as lightning flashed and thunder vibrated the windows.

Before leaving the Kawagoe Station I was forced to buy yet another umbrella as the rain showed no sign of abating. Kinou wa i-i tenki dat ta desu demo kiyou wa i-i tenki ja na i desu!

I had a delightful time roaming around the streets, absorbing the atmosphere and taking photos. It was difficult keeping the camera dryish and stopping the lens fogging up, even under the umbrella.  I found a sweet wind chime in a little old fashioned store and couldn't resist! The rain didn't spoil my enjoyment though, but I imagine on a fine day it would look quite idyllic.

Finally, the rain started to annoy me so I stopped for a 'drying' break. I enjoyed a lunch of ramen and yasai-no-kakiage (tempura vegetable patty) in a gorgeous little restaurant, complete with classical music, that I found in a back street off Ichibangai (that's number one street). Referring to my very rain sodden map I continued visiting temples and gardens. Eventually, I started to feel quite chilly which gave me an excuse to stop at the Gap store where I had seen a cardigan I quite liked. Such a shame!!

I made a perfect return trip home and arrived back at Ishikawacho in one and a half hours. I was so glad that I had finally visited Kawagoe-'Little Edo' and experienced a little more of the 'old' Japan! Arigatou gozai mashi ta!

Off to Odawara!

Watashi wa Odawara-jou ni ik i mashita!

Odawara, a place name we see on all Tokaido Line signs (orange stripe trains), a place we pass through or change trains at but a place I hadn't explored! Unsure about leaving the air conditioned apartment to venture out, I left my departure until nearly midday. Not a good start. I headed off on the Negishi Line to Ofuna then changed to the Tokaido Line. Four stops past Ofuna, at Hiratsuka, the train made an elongated stop. I waited patiently. People were getting on...a sure sign we'd be leaving soon and leave we did...but what? We were five stops short of Odawara and now heading in the opposite direction back to Tokyo. Darn! Nothing to do but get off at the next station, Chigasaki, and resume my southwards journey! Finally after nearly two hours, I arrived in Odawara! Baka na!!

Not wanting to waste any more time, I had a quick lunch at Beck's Coffee Shop then started my solo, 'Jenny Lost in Japan Tour'.

Wandering along the streets, I was in imminent danger of not arriving at the first designated 'port of call', Odawara Castle Park (Odawara Joshi Koen). Every town is full of shops, and more shops, but here, today, the beautifully paved streets were wide and uncrowded. Having lost my favourite Japanese sun hat, on a trip to Akihabara, I decided that today was the perfect opportunity to replace it, especially without an impatient male breathing down my neck! I bought one and then saw another one in a different shop that I quite liked so I bought that too. Uh oh! Time to move on!

It was about a ten minute walk to the castle with plenty of distractions along the way. Like many places, the castle has been destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries.  After the 1923 Kanto Earthquake and WW2, it was once again practically destroyed. The museum had displays of historical remnants and relics of earlier times. Unfortunately, taking photos was forbidden. There was no charge to wander around the gardens but a 400 yen admittance fee to the castle and museum. I paid 200 yen for something else but never did work out what it was for. Plenty of requests, in broken Japanese, and I was still none the wiser. With a strong samurai history, you could even hire samurai clobber and have your photo taken.

I spent a delightful few hours within the castle grounds, taking the obligatory tourist snaps and even purchasing another himitsu bako (secret/puzzle box) with a 21 step opening process (3,800 yen) and some chopstick rests ( 530 yen each) from Hakone. The puzzle box originated in the Hakone region at the turn of the 19th century. Once opened, it usually contains a lucky charm (very lucky, if I am to remember the 21 steps). Chopstick rests are a 'dime a dozen', actually not that cheap, but these ones were quite intricate and another reminder of beautiful Hakone, the place we have visited so many times. The gardens were lovely and, as usual, the twisted trees which have been trained over the decades and even longer, were magnificent. I liken them to giant bonsai. Many trees, large and small, are very heavily pruned and trained into some form!

Leaving the castle, I just couldn't help but dart up and down streets on my way back to the station. As I exited the park through a different gate, there was a lovely shrine and then a beautiful field of lotus.

See the carp in the water!

There are always so many things to see, so I take photos and try to squeeze as many visions into my head as I can. On this occasion, I couldn't be left behind with all my stopping and starting though. This was another 'solo' venture and 'herself' didn't mind if she dawdled and absorbed!

Drive down this road and it takes you along the east coast of the Izu Peninsula.

Walking back to the station!

When I reluctantly decided it was time to catch the train home (950 yen each way), I had run out of daylight and nearly walked my feet off. For a while, the later it had got....the better the light was for taking photos. It seemed to take an interminably long time to get back to Ishikawacho and, I'm afraid, I even found myself nodding off with all the other commuters. I arrived back at Leyton House just on 8.00pm. I may have made a late start but had made up for my tardiness with this late arrival home! 'Himself', even had to get his own meal!