Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Tourists in Tokyo!

Like true Tokyoites, we were determined to make the most of our weekend (June 5-6th) so it was on with the walking shoes and on with the sunnies. The weather was fantastic; sunny and about 25 degrees. Of course, every single person in Tokyo (an expansive area and so densely populated) had the same idea. Fortunately many people tend to head out of Tokyo, so it only left about ten million or so.

Steve was not home from work till quite late on Friday so we began our weekend with a quite walk around the Shinagawa Station area and soup and noodles in one of the many Noodle Bars off the sidewalk. As seems to be the norm these days we fell into bed and slept like the dead (it must be all the pavement pounding and the struggle to understand and be understood). The scales are certainly showing that we have both lost a couple of kilos somewhere!

On Saturday we had to hang around the apartment awaiting the delivery of our new bank cards. Once delivered we headed off armed with our yen, Suica card and map of the Tokyo railway system. This complicated piece of artwork  is aimed at simplifying an amazingly complex railway system which runs in multiple lines above and below the ground. Astoundingly this complex system appears to run like clockwork. Trains run on time (to the minute), ticketing is effortless unless you confuse the machines by clocking in then clocking out straight away because you have forgotten something. A problem soon solved by a visit to the ticketing office adjacent to the turnstiles. When you consider how many people pass through each station every day it makes you wonder why Melbourne can't get it right. Whilst travelling on a train phones must be on silent and announcements ask you not to speak on your phones, so even though trains are often very squishy they are relatively peaceful!


We decided our first stop would be the Tokyo Government Building located in Shinjuku. We caught the correct train and arrived safely in yet another railway station. This one was big and almost required a packed lunch for the journey to the chosen exit.  Departing this massive station saw us walking long distances under ground through tunnels that left us dumbfounded. By the time we reached daylight we felt that maybe we had turned into rabbits!!


The Tokyo Government Building houses the headquarters of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government which governs not only the 23 wards, but also the cities, towns and villages that make up Tokyo as a whole. The building consists of a complex of three structures, each taking up a city block. The tallest and most prominent of the three is Tokyo Metropolitan Main building No.1, a tower 48 stories tall that splits into two sections at the 33rd floor. It was this building which we went to the top of to get a glimpse of the skyscrapered sprawl called Tokyo. Entrance to the Observation Deck is free and is renowned for offering an excellent spectacle. As it was a clear day the view was impressive as the pictures show.




Our day was spent getting on and off trains, walking amongst the crowds and enjoying all the new sights and sounds. Many of the buildings are quite impressive and some of the architectural features beautiful. Roppongi, Shinjuku and Shibuya certainly have their fair share of tall buildings, flashing billboards and crowds.


The scene below is typical of the many streets that make up the maze of the city. Streets are rarely labelled and it is very easy to end up walking in circles.

Sadly the level of homelessness is increasing and it is quite common to see boxes like these set up on the sides of busy freeways and sidewalks in all areas. As you travel on the trains you  see  makeshift shelters on the edges of parks and along  the railway lines.


 Just above these makeshift homes was this beautiful piece of architecture.


I am thinking of getting an outfit like this. I think I could get away with it, don't you? Steve fancied if I was dressed like that, then maybe, the most suitable car would be the Fiat X19 that he was drooling over. Dressing like a Harajuku could be more me!




We finished the day off having tea at an Indian Restaurant in Ebisu and then headed off home. We decided to get off in Gotanda as we had seen a place where you could buy a really cheap, but nice, Californian wine for 498 yen (about $6.35). It does me until I can source something better. Steve bought large cans of Suntory Rich Malt beer for about $1.80 each. Too good to pass up. From Gotanda back to Shinagawa is was about 20-30 minutes, a walk we have done a few times now. For the rest of the evening we were entertained by the apparent rigmarole associated with a very simple traffic incident. It required 4-5 police cars, an ambulance and many others with torches, flags and witches hats.


On Sunday having been woken by the alarm, an earth tremor which shook our beds, (did the earth shake for you?) we decided to borrow some bikes from Apartment 33, where we live, and take another look around Tokyo. We headed out of Shinagawa towards Tokyo and made our convoluted way to Roppongi Hills. At first it was a little daunting on the roads without helmets but we soon fell into the rhythm. Once there we realised we could have cut off a significant amount of miles taking a more direct route. Never mind it just meant we saw more! The first point of interest on our journey was Japan's answer to the Eiffel Tower, the Tokyo Tower. Built in 1958 this broadcasting tower is 333 metres high. Views of the entire city from the 150 metre high and 250 metre high observatories can be enjoyed. On this occasion we did not stop and do this. We had some serious pedalling to do.


We arrived in Roppongi quite hot and just cruised around all the streets investigating. Roppongi is renowned for its exciting nightspots and having some of the largest building complexes in Japan. It is quite a popular area for expatriates to live.

The scene below is typical of the many intersections we had to negotiate on our bikes. I didn't take this photo but have added it because it was a scene Erica and I had been intrigued with. This particular location is Shibuya, famous as a fashionable shopping district of Tokyo, with department stores and shopping malls filled with boutiques. It is the trendy area for Tokyo's youth and is where fashions and trends get started for all of Japan. It gets particularly crowded on the weekends. It was such fun riding our bikes amongst the crowds and we got quite proficient at maintaining a consistent and constant speed. By swapping between the sidewalk and the road we could avoid many red lights.


Whilst in  Shibuya we visited an Environmental Expo and rode around Yoyogi Park. Yoyogi Park was very beautiful and obviously a very popular place for a variety of groups to meet. There were enclaves of artists, musicians, photographers, families, entertainers, cyclists, vocalists.... you name it they were there.




Check out the hairdos on the Elvis look alikes who were performing with their ghetto blaster directly next to a Rock'n'Roll group with their own music going. 




These girls were practising their dance moves in front of big mirrors. They are known as Kawaiis, innocent girls aged between about 16 and 20 years old.  Kawaii is an adjective in Japanese meaning " pretty; cute; lovely; charming; dear; darling; pet". They spend an awful amount of time preparing! I really wanted to see where all the Harajuku meet but today that spot was not to be found......something for another trip!




 Our day continued in pretty much the same vein and we eventually returned home hot, exhilarated, exhausted and glowing!! It had been fantastic fun!! We had spent a total of seven hours on the bikes and the day had passed without drama, except for two hours when we were lost. I actually question whether you are really lost when you know where you are but can't get home! Using maps on the IPhone was not much as we both seem to have lost our sense of direction since arriving here. I am sure it must have something to do with living in the Northern Hemisphere. Sounds a reasonable excuse to me!

Our evening was spent with an assortment of Apartment 33 residents at the monthly party hosted by Saito San, the manager. The focus of this get together was to sample a variety of sakes from the Northern Honshu area.  I do quite like sake!! Can't drink too much though, it might become a habit. Food was also provided, so no cooking that night! Damn...






Saturday, June 5, 2010

I saw a fly!!!

Could you imagine that such an annoying thing at home could cause such excitement!! Remember it is now summertime in Japan.

Tokyo and its environs seem to be totally devoid of any insect life. Imagine how we felt when this happened! We were out walking the other day when a very lethargic fly landed on my phone. It was like, 'Oh my god, a fly!!' Unlike an Aussie bush fly he seemed happy just to sit there. Maybe he had flown off course...maybe he was also finding city life quite exhausting. That little fly is the only one we have seen. Unbelievable!

About two nights ago Steve called out "A spider!" Quickly I asked, "Is it a big one?" After an investigation, with my specs on, I saw a tiny little spider. I swear it was smaller than a penny farthing. These are the only two insects we have seen. Can you believe it?

As for bird life in the city there is only one bird, unless you count the bird sounds which are played through speakers at all the stations. No kookaburras, magpies, cockatoos or other annoying varieties like starlings and blackbirds. The seagull of the city is the old crow (or is it a raven?). You can hear them 'aaarking' in the trees and overhead. I found an interesting sign the other day when visiting Steve at work in Tsurumi.  Maybe you need to wear an icecream container on your head, complete with eyes, just like they suggest at home to stop the magpies swooping. These signs were attached to fences in many places.


In Kamakura an addition to the crow was the hawk. Down by the beach and at the market these very large hawks were circling around like seagulls. If you can believe the signs they too need to be treated with caution.


We are looking forward to taking a trip out into the countryside to see whether this lack of fauna can be reversed. An upcoming trip in July to Mt Fuji should shed some light on the situation.

For those who are familiar with our home and surroundings in Australia these pictures are for you. This is a view from our front door. I am yet to see other human feet walk along the hallway. No crazy dogs barking at visitors and chasing cars here!!


How funny is that?? The next picture shows the view out of our window at night (obviously!!). You can see where the train line is running towards Shinagawa station and the road which leads to Kawasaki and beyond.



Quite a lovely outlook, in a city kind of way, isn't it? The view from our apartment in Yokohama will be good. Every room has a view, even the loo. Being on the corner of the building and on the 16th floor it almost has 360 degree views. It will be another 4 weeks until we move there though.

A visit to the Epson Centre in Shinagawa gave me a wonderful sea life experience. Not quite scuba diving but a great place to visit. I spent about two and a half hours there and enjoyed watching dolphin displays and sea lion acts. It is best to visit places like this during the week as it is much quieter.




I wonder whether they have flies and more birds in Yokohama. We will have to wait and see!! Sounds like a good mission....spot the bird....spot the fly. You can sure there will be no spots on me!!
Do you know one of the things I miss most?  Walking on grass, even stepping in chook poo!!

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Lost in Translation!!!!


"Lost in Translation!" is relevant in a variety of situations, not only for me.  It  also applies to many aspects of the project Steve is working on. Even the Japanese get it wrong!! Do they mean turtle or tortoise or are they just covering all possibilities?



Please read the following:

だからどのようにこのような何かを読み取ろうとする感じですか?あなたがそこに永遠に座ることがそれを回避することができることに同意しないでください。


OK, so you know what it says!! Unfortunately for me I'm not quite that quick.


Try this: 

あなたはお店で、低脂肪牛乳やフルクリームミルクを購入することができます。


If you were lucky you may have had some assistance and it could have said this :  

Anata wa o mise de, tei shibō gyūnyū ya furukurīmumiruku o kōnyū suru koto ga deki masu.


You could try using a phrase book or Google translate. Unfortunately it's not that easy.



Now try to follow this last instruction..... 
 

新しいルータをインストールし、コンピュータを切断し、ルータに無線LAN回線を接続してください。


Remember the instructions are not Romanised like below:

 
Atarashii rūta o insutōru shi, konpyūta o setsudan shi, rūta ni musen LAN kaisen o setsuzoku shite kudasai.

 .
 .
 .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Don't cheat!!!! 

Keep working on it!!! 

 No use asking anyone because they can't understand you!!


In actual fact the three different texts said: 


1. So how does it feel trying to read something like this? Don't you agree you could sit there forever and never be able to work it out.

2. At the shop you can buy low fat milk and full cream milk.

3. To install your new router please disconnect your computer and plug the LAN line into the router.


You wait I will be writing fluent 'goobledy gook' before you know it!! 


Sayonara mo ikanakereba nari-masen!!

I thought this sign I saw at a temple in Shinagawa was cute. The pictures helped!! 


Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Sake, Supermarkets and Shrines!!

After a busy day on Friday the 28th (purchasing a new phone for me, registering as aliens and establishing a bank account) we were really ready for a relaxing evening. The whole process had taken nearly 6 hours...our level of understanding throughout.....little!  Thank goodness for Sally, our relocation advisor, who after 15 years in Japan speaks fluent Japanese. We also needed to catch three trains, three taxis and do a fair bit of walking. No one seems to like making decisions on their own so papers were endlessly shuffled and checked, as we sat silently tapping our fingers.

At one stage during the afternoon we saw this beautiful memorial,  in the Minato-ku area, which represents babies that have died for one reason or another. Each one wears a little crocheted hat to keep it warm. Very moving and so sad, but what a beautiful thing to have them all together.

After finishing all the paperwork by about 6.30pm and catching the train home we knew we would not be getting our relaxing evening yet.

Tonight I would be experiencing my first team building function. A meal with all the people on Steve's project had been organised at a great little place on one of the canals in Shinagawa. In total eighteen people turned up. It was a very multi cultural group, Americans mainly and actually four Australians but Indian, Malay, Irish, Canadian and more. One guy was on days off from the rigs in Bass Strait and was over visiting his partner who is working on the project.
The food was yummy and included raw scallops and fish. After a bottle of very nice wine shared with another guy and a little bit too much sake I literally fell into bed that night. It had been surprisingly relaxing to spend time with a group of people where language was no barrier.

The sake was presented in this little box. The glass was filled to overflowing to demonstrate the hosts generosity.  After sculling the glass you then poured the overflow into the glass. Fortunately I only sipped. I may have not walked the distance back to the apartment had I drunk it too quickly!!!


The next morning I wanted to demonstrate my new train skills to Steve so I showed him some of the sights in Kawasaki. It was incredibly busy.... it seemed on this occasion that absolutely everyone must go shopping together. The black suits and ties of the working week are shed in favour of jeans and anything you feel like putting together. Some of the outfits are really out there, others are incredibly daggy. It doesn't really matter though, anything goes. The supermarket was something to see. The noise level was unreal and the shopping trolleys were bumper to bumper. I am still to hear a word spoken in anger and, in spite of the crowds, the Japanese demonstrate unbelievable patience. No road rage or rudeness from anyone. Politeness is such a wonderful human trait. The huge range of food and choices are quite overwhelming really. If you want fresh seafood you just select it out of crates. Everything is immaculate. We managed to buy enough food for a few days and headed off towards Shinagawa. You can't afford to buy too much because what you buy you must carry.

Sunday saw us setting off on a sightseeing trip with a young guy, Steve, who is also working on the same project as Steve. Just out of uni and the ripe old age of 23, his first posting was Japan for three months. He is a  Canadian but had moved to Houston to work and then within a short time ended up here. Steve is also living in the same apartment building as us in Shinagawa.
We had planned on visiting Nikko to the north of us, a trip which takes about 2 hours on the bullet train and then another train. As we did not leave early enough  we decided we would head for Kamakura, about a 50 minute train trip south of here and Yokohama.

Kamakura is well known for its temples and shrines, and also the Great Buddha. When we first arrived in Kamakura, rather than catch a street car to the main sights, we decided to meander through the streets. Lovely narrow, neat and intricately paved streets with lots of little shops.
Whilst wandering we caught a glimpse of water so we almost ran to get to the sea. We were nearly there when we came across this really cool market with stacks of different foods. Not  able to go to the Bittern Market, as I often do on Sundays with Bek and Erica, I thought how strange it was that I had ended up at this market doing my normal Sunday thing. It was a bit of an alternative market with lots of dreadlocks, even Jamaicans, wandering groups singing and playing instruments. It was great and the variety of foods on offer was excellent.


This is my lunch being prepared. This is how it was served. It was very nice and cost 500yen (about $6.00)
After having something to eat we moved onto the beach and watched the various activities; surfing (no surf this time), sailing, couple of jet skies, windsurfers and even some swimmers.












It was actually quite chilly so we were impressed. We were interested to read the warning signs about what to do in case of a tsunami (there was an English warning as well).
This was the local Yacht Club. You had to take your off the beach boats across the road to launch them.

Here we are cleansing before we enter to see the Great Buddha.
We meandered along beautiful streets as we went from one temple to another.

I couldn't resist ringing the bell.
Steve and I bow as we make a donation at one of the temples.
At around 2-00pm we caught the train to Kita Kamakura, one stop back towards the city, and repeated the walking/looking process. It was a good choice as Kita Kamakura was very quiet (for Japan) and we came across a beautiful garden/temple. This particular garden housed the Shokozoan-Tokejii Temple. It was established in 1285 and was designated as a nunnery. In those days a woman had no right to seek a divorce. Tokejii was designated as a sanctuary  and if a woman spent three calendar years there she could obtain a divorce. Hence this temple earned the nickname 'Divorce Temple'. Even we felt the total peace and serenity this garden offered.
After many miles we opted for a hot drink and cake then headed back to Shinagawa. Pleasingly we actually all had a seat for the entire trip, a miracle!!!
Overall a successful day!!

Monday, May 31, 2010

Thank goodness for broken packets!!

I guess when you are desperate you will give anything a go.

In the supermarket today I was trying to find sugar. Once again I was plunged into the world of a non reader. Using Google translate on my Iphone I had sourced the Japanese symbols for sugar but...you don't realise how much writing is on a packet until you can't decode any of it. Finally I noticed spillage on a shelf near some packets.  A quick dip and taste soon told me which was the sugar and which was the salt. I gave up working out which packets contained low fat milk. Way too much useful information in indecipherable symbols. The other day someone told be he ended up with a packet of cottage cheese instead of milk but unfortunately didn't realize this until he poured it in his coffee. Oh, the trials of an alien!! 

Sourcing a product similar to Napisan may have to be the next mission. This alien has had just a few disasters with black clothes running into lighter coloured garments.
Sugar, herbs, cereal and a botltle of Californian wine. The Italian wine I bought the other day was not good!! I suspect that sourcing a good wine will be a never ending mission.

Today's mission.... to buy Steve a pair of hair clippers and get some mugs. Currently we have to drink multiple mini cups to get the amount we want. To do this I caught a train to Oimachi (pronounced Oh-i-mar-ch-ee) and went to a huge store called LABI. LABI  comprised of two six storey buildings linked by an elevated glass walkway. Once again I have never seen so many products in the one store. You could buy anything from household electrical goods, cameras and sporting equipment to groceries.  I have been searching for mugs since arriving and today I finally found some which passed the test. Next I stood in front of the men's products and made my choice. Let's hope we don't have any huge mistakes when testing them out, can't afford to lose too much hair. I am fairly confident I didn't buy an electric toothbrush or an electric razor.

The only real mistake I made today was to get off the train and follow the crowd without thinking. Once the crowd moved away I realized I was somewhere unfamiliar. I had ended up at the wrong exit on Shinagawa Station. You could compare the station with Chadstone in size. I quickly retraced my steps and got back to Central Station, not North and made my way safely back to the apartment. Nice!! When I got back there the maids!!were changing the sheets and vacuuming. Perfect I could sit and enjoy a cuppa (still haven't sourced any decaff tea yet)and celebrate another successful mission!!

In my next post I will introduce you to my new friend, the Great Buddha!!