Steam, saunas and sake!!!

Steam, saunas and sake!!......It's very hard to see in Kawazu....it can't be the sake it must be the steam! Steam from the onsens, steam from the saunas!! All in all it was a steamy experience!

Another 'alien' visitation ....... another trip to the Izu Peninsula. Each visit reaps new findings and each visit develops our 'traffic jam' skills of patience....in my previous teaching life we called it scaffolding!! With Bek, Sarah and the girls we chose a ryokan in Toi for our overnight accommodation and with Marion a ryokan in Shimoda. The latter choice was a little shaky in all senses....the place was well past its best and to top it off I was ill all night. This time I researched carefully and finally decided to move away from the coast in search of a new experience. There is often the option of traditional Japanese or Western style accommodation....we like the tatami mats and futons. We enjoy visiting the east and west coasts but also like to travel through the mountainous central region.

Having decided on a couple of places in Kawazu, I took my list down to the front desk and asked one of our lovely concierges to book for me. Many places can not be booked online and most places do not have English speaking staff. Our first inquiry with Amagi Onsen Zen-no-yu Youth Hostel was successful.........our accommodation was under control. What it would be like was for us to find out. What would be, would be!! It's all part of the fun and the experience. As a couple of my previous blog posts have covered the Izu Peninsula, rather than repeat past information, I will only outline a few of the many highlights this weekend offered.

Wherever we drove on our first day we had Fuji-San in our sights. If not ahead of us, he was looking over our shoulder, standing tall and grand with his snow capped peak. It's amazing how the snow has receded over the past couple of weeks. The skies were clear and blue, perfect for continual visual contact with this Japanese icon. From Yokohama to the west coast, he was there!!

Hakone, our first stop, was dominated by his presence and we could not resist a trip on the cable car (Sorry Sarah!! We'll go back for you). Hakone, located less than 100 kilometres from Tokyo, on the shores of Lake Ashi is part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. It is a very popular destination.

A chair lift ticket (or is that a wicket?)cost 1050 yen per person (about $12.50AUD) and we decided it was the best value for money we had experienced for a while.

Even 'Himself' was impressed!!!

As we rose above Hakone, our panoramic view was dominated by Fuji-san, Lake Ashi and the dense forests below.

As we left the cable car station, like any self respecting tourists, we had to take these shots!!

Once at the top, the ground was a little chilly under foot but the views were beautiful. We meandered around enjoying the views back to Tokyo and surrounding towns.

Still with miles to cover, we had a quick lunch at the bottom and then moved on. From Hakone we found our way down the east coast to Toi and then across the mountains to Kawazu on the east coast. We went across the spiral bridge just before arriving but, as it was dark, the 'aliens' could only feel the spiralling sensation not see it.

By the time we reached our destination it was just after 5pm and, as mentioned, dark. We drove around Kawazu looking for the inn and, instead of believing my paper map, we used the GPS by putting the phone number in. Unfortunately, it took us to the wrong place. On our way into Kawazu we had driven past a place that looked like the pictures on the Internet, so we returned there. A quick check confirmed we had arrived.  

Well!!! 

The Amagi Onsen Zen-no-yu YH exceeded all expectations. It was brilliant. The tariff of 7130 yen each provided accommodation, a traditional Japanese dinner and breakfast and unlimited use of the stone sauna and onsens. On arrival we were presented with our linen for the futons and a little bag with our towel, hand towel, toiletries, pyjamas and wrap for the sauna. Everything was immaculate and tastefully presented. We were literally blown away and..... so started our totally indulgent and luxurious evening!

Dinner was served at 6.30pm so, after a wine in the room, we headed down to the dining room. We had been told it was acceptable to wear our pyjamas to tea , so when in Rome........

'Herself' is ready for anything ! Futons are made, bag is packed, pyjamas on.....bring it on!!

 

Tea was amazing.....seven different dishes, including ramen which we prepared ourselves. The whole meal was vegetarian so anything that looked or tasted like fish was really tofu...even me who really quite dislikes tofu managed to eat it. The platter below is the ingredients for the ramen. Disgustingly healthy.......and very nice.

The only thing I couldn't come at was the little offering that looked like a condom filled with some odd mixture. It was actually tofu and sesame paste. When you pricked the balloon, it retracted and the insides sort of flopped out. It was a greyish colour and I am sure it was very special, but I just couldn't do it!! I did note it was equally perplexing for the young Japanese group sitting behind us. Warm sake was a delightful accompaniment to the meal!!

Through the window of the dining room, not a traditional 'Japanese' room, the red and blue curtains mark the entrances to the 'water activity' area!! As is normal it was boys in one area and girls in another. Just as well, I say!!

After our delicious tea, we headed off to our respective areas. Mandy and I started with the sauna. As we entered, the warmth and scent was gorgeous. I tried to take a photo (another of my 'closed window' moments) and naturally the camera fogged up instantly. We lay our towels down on the stones and then lay ourselves down. Oh, what a feeling!!! Relaxing music, warm stones,  shiny, black timber walls and ceiling and darkness! Within a very short time our bodies were saturated and, in spite of drinking copious quantities of water, we could only stay for about 10-15 minutes. We then moved to the indoor onsen where we enjoyed soaking in the hot spring water which flowed constantly. The water was suitable for drinking so, in the absence of wine, we drank!

When it got too hot we moved to the outside area where, once again, there was fresh hot, hot water on tap. After another plunge, we lay down on the cold banana lounges to chill down. Brrrr!!! very chilly! When we had cooled down sufficiently it was back to the sauna to repeat the process. Finally, we finished off with another scrub down and took advantage of all the gorgeous creams and sprays on offer. Oh, the life of the rich and (in)famous!!!!

Breakfast was an equally beautiful meal and we then followed up with a repeat of the previous night's 'water activities'. The outdoor onsens are behind the fenced area.

Needless to say we were very impressed with our stay, so impressed by our night that I have made a booking for Sarah and Steve, when they visit in March. The whole experience was gorgeous.

Before leaving, Steve and I climbed the hill behind the building and found an old shed with a potter's kiln in it. Whilst poking around we frightened an animal, which quickly disappeared from view. We thought it looked like a little bear!

How excited were we, when we discovered the so called creature hiding beside the kiln. After a few photos we left him alone........in hindsight, probably a bit stunned by the flash!! A search on the Internet confirmed it was a Japanese raccoon dog or tanuki. The tanuki is not related to the raccoon but is part of the evolutionary family that includes foxes, wolves and dogs.

The animal carries historical and cultural significance in Japan. It is a common theme in Japanese art, especially in statues. Takuni statues can be seen outside many restaurants and, in Asakusa, a rickshaw driver explained the significance of the many different raccoon statues.

We began the next stage of our trip going back across the spiral bridge to visit the Kawazu Falls.

We didn't see all seven falls this time but had a lovely walk around. The autumn leaves are still hanging in there!

 If you believe the sign we all felt very relaxed after our walk........cleansed of all negative ions!!

We had a stopover in Shimoda and I was fascinated with all racks of fish drying in the sun. 

We moved back up the east coast and got stuck in the normal traffic jams around Ito and Atami. Incidentally the toll fees were only 3000yen for the weekend, well down on recent trips. Fortunately we were not held up for long in the traffic and were back home by about six o'clock. 

Another great 'Japanese' adventure!! 

So for me it's back to Japanese lessons, more adventures around Yokohama and Tokyo with the 'aliens' and preparing for  two extra visitors, Si and Charlotte. It's a busy life....but an exciting one!

Sunday Sumo's!!

 

"If you've half a mind to join the hash, that's all you need!"

  (a popular Hash House Harriers' motto)

Well that was us on Sunday......I wanted to..he didn't want to.....that sounded like half a mind to me!!

After the run in Roppongi on Friday night, we really weren't too sure about doing another run, but the Sumo HH Run was being held in our area and it was an absolutely beautiful day. All we had to do was ride our bikes to the starting point, no trains, it doesn't get much easier than that. Riding your bikes through Chinatown on a Sunday is a major feat and the weather meant the place was very busy. The Yokohama Marathon, starting in Yamashita Park, had also been run in the morning so as usual it was all happening! Never a dull moment here!!!

It wasn't a big group running, about 20, but it was an enthusiastic one. For us it's great just having interaction with such a diverse group ...young US soldiers, Japanese, expats from all over and, today, even three dogs. Actually only one of them ran part of the way.

We even had live 'pre run' entertainment.....Christmas Carols on the ukulele!!

 2.30pm arrives.......Time to get moving, it's getting a bit cool.

It's a bit hard stopping and taking photos on a run and then running to catch up, so I decided not to take any pictures this time. It was our home territory after all! Runners darted in all directions trying to find the trail at the first checkpoint and the group quickly split.

Hashing is based on the old British game of 'Hares and Hounds' and was started by a group of British officers in Kuala Lumpur in 1938. A run usually has 6-7 checkpoints. Throughout the course there are arrows, marked in chalk or flour, and check backs then a checkpoint. A checkpoint is marked by a circle and runners head off in each direction finding the course. Once found a whistle blows and to the cry of 'On On' everyone follows, leaving a mark for those behind.

Pleasingly we both stayed with the 'forward group' and managed to stay on course. We ran along the foreshore, up the hill into the Yamate area, back down the hill and then back up again, up and down copious amounts of steps, out the back of Ishikawacho Station, towards Saguragicho, then towards the area near the ferris wheel. Some took a shortcut at this stage but I stayed with the group.

Finally after 9km's we returned to the starting point. Very quickly, as we stood in the shadows of the trees, our hot bodies cooled down. The days have been clear and sunny but by 3-3.30pm there is a definite chill in the air. It was decided to move to a sunnier location so the group moved off to a warm spot against a wall down near the foreshore. As usual, beer and wine was to be had and plenty of food was available to replenish our exercised bodies.

It's a lovely opportunity to chatter to others and find out about their lives in Japan.....where they live and come from, what they do etc etc.

 The live entertainment continued...............

 ....and I enjoyed chatting with 'Chucky Chunda', her Hash name not her real name.

'Chucky Chunda' is married to an Englishman and they wanted to give their dog an English name.

Please let me introduce you to 

'Sir Tristan Tansy'!

 How English is that?

'Sir Tristan' enjoyed lying flat on his belly to absorb the last of the warmth from the paving!

 

By this stage we were keen to get on our bikes and ride home......we were very, very cold! We rode all the way at 'break neck' speed. Heaven help any pedestrians in our way!

'On On'  

beckoned the hot, Radox filled bathtub!!

Let's go for a drive on the Peninsula!

Kore-wa watashi-no-blogu-desu. 
Yom de-kudasai! 

Well it was back home from Saipan and where can we go today? After the normal post holiday clean up and tea out on Saturday night, with a work colleague from home, we were ready to head off in the car. Luckily for us the weather was beautiful, not tropical like Saipan but clear and sunny. Clear enough to see our beautiful mountain but not hot enough to get sunburned again!!

We have visited the Izu Peninsula quite a few times and gave it the 'thumbs down'. When the next 'alien visitors' arrive we'll spend a couple of nights down there.......Mandy and Dave are the next victims! The Izu Peninsula is to our south west but directly to our south is the Miura Peninsula (三浦半島). Tokyo Bay is on the east and Sagami Bay on the west. Kamakura, once the capital of Japan, is at the top of this peninsula. Zushi, the place where we went to the beach party during Summer, is nearby. Its relatively close location to Tokyo means that in the Summer it attracts enormous crowds. It's a convenient and popular leisure spot for many water sports.... wind surfing, surfing, sailing, diving to name a few. The Miura Peninsula is much smaller than the Izu Peninsula and we easily drove around it in the day. Naturally many visits would be required to really see all that it has to offer.

We headed off using our own navigational skills, as we know 'Honey' often takes us out of town in a more convoluted way than is necessary. Unlike many other excursions we found the trip out of Yokohama very quiet and free of any traffic jams and we made excellent time....a very pleasant change!  As it was such a lovely day (i-i tenki desu) we had thought there would be the normal migration out of the city. Once clear of the more built up area we handed over the 'navigational reins' to 'Honey' and enjoyed the journey. The toll costs, 3650 yen ($46.00), for the day surprised us a little, even though they were down on our Narita trip costs of $60.00. Each time we get to a toll gate we have the normal game of charades to establish the cost. At some gates you take a ticket and hand it in as you exit and at others you pay a fixed amount at the start. The operators at each of the gates have worked out their own system for dealing with 'resident aliens' and 'tourists'.

Studying the map before we left we decided to make our way to Jogashima Island (pronounced Jo-gash-i-ma). Jogashima Island is off the south west corner of the peninsula and is reached via a bridge (only 150 yen for a return trip across).

The first place we stopped was Aburatsubo, situated along a beautiful coastline.

The Aburatsubo Marine Park is a popular place, where dolphins and seals amuse spectators with their wonderful performances, but we gave this a miss and went for a nice long walk down to the beach.

Some things never change, we are always on the lookout for yachts and marinas. There were lots of marinas, as obviously this is a very popular place for city folk to keep their boats. We  looked down upon this marina and then as we walked along the beach we found....

........this one in a 'pen' and thought maybe we should change 'Makira' for it??

Maybe not!!

Much of the peninsula is devoted to farming and no space is left idle. The main crop appeared to be white radishes and the fields were widespread and intense. The ground was bulging with these elongated vegetables which were obviously ready. The harvested radishes could be seen hanging in all kinds of places.

As we drove past one particular beach on the east coast, there were huge racks with hundreds of them hanging out to dry. I was unable to get a photo of them because we were in traffic. I  snapped some just hanging out in various places.


Wherever we went people were out walking, eating, buying, sitting on the water's edge drawing....

 or just lying around taking it easy!!

We had lunch in this little place on Jogashima Island. One of those places that spoke no English and had no pictures on the menu, so we just pointed and hoped for the best. We ended up with some type of ramen which was fine.

 As we were walking Steve couldn't resist a little snack, maybe the ramen wasn't filling enough!

 We walked to the end of the street....

and found a lighthouse.

Kannon-zaki Point, in the southern part of the Miura-hanto Peninsula and is well-known for Japan's first Western-style lighthouse that still watches over ships coming in and out of Tokyo Bay.

To date any forays along the beaches haven't produced any treasures so on the way back, at 5,000yen, I couldn't resist one of these......

Steve is always fascinated by the bikes we see on the roads....some are big, others are even bigger and then some are quite small....

We continued to meander around and explore. Driving back past Misaki Harbor, a very busy harbor that is especially good for tuna fishing, we were finally drawn back to the bright city lights. Returning to the expressways and traffic, we made our way home!

It was a very pleasant trip and pleasingly 'Himself' and 'Honey' didn't argue once. Well done!!

Things are improving!